Dentil crown molding installation

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Remember me Log in. This article details a crown dentil moulding installation using urethane trim manufactured by Fypon. As with any crown moulding installation, measure the perimeter of each room and determine how many linear feet of moulding you will need. When ordering, specify a few extra inches of moulding for each corner to compensate for any errors as well as the waste pieces left from the miter cuts. Plus, the urethane material comes double-primed from the factory, so you can start with a latex or oil-based finish coat in your choice of color.

Use a stud finder to mark the framing locations behind the wallboard, as well as any plumbing, electrical or other obstructions that might affect the installation. To create a solid nailing surface on which to hang the moulding, I installed wood blocks along the perimeter of the ceiling.

To do this, I measured the angle of the moulding profile using a combination square, and then cut triangular blocks from scrap wood on my table saw to fit behind the moulding. I nailed these blocks every 16 inches onto the wall studs.

The room featured in this project had four inside corners and no outside corners. With inside corners on paint-grade projects, minor imperfections in the joints are fairly easy to conceal with caulk. Whereas skilled trim carpenters usually cope the inside corners of wood crown moulding, Fypon actually discourages coping in favor of cutting a matching miter cut. The miter is then fastened with a combination of non-corrosive finish nails and polyurethane construction adhesive.

The miter joints of outside corners are more noticeable, so careful attention must be given to achieve a matching cut. Remember that walls are not always square and true. To avoid this, each outside corner requires you to measure the wall angle with a protractor and figure out the angles necessary to achieve the proper miter cut. A powered miter saw is the best tool for cutting joints in crown moulding. When cutting the corners, position the moulding against the miter saw fence upside-down and facing upward.

You should place the moulding so its ceiling-side will be flat against the bottom of the saw base, and the wall-side will be flat against the vertical back fence. Set the miter saw to the appropriate angle and hold the moulding securely during cutting so it does not flex and affect the angle. To avoid nicking the moulding, allow the saw blade to stop spinning completely before carefully lifting it from the work piece.

When installing synthetic trim, bear in mind that the urethane foam used in Fypon products will expand during hot temperatures and contract during cold temperatures. To minimize the expansion and contraction it is important to install the moulding as tightly as possible. Raising and fastening long strips of moulding along a ceiling typically requires an assistant.

However, I generally work alone, so I use Crown Hangers to help support the trim while I nail it in place www. When you have no extra hands to hold the moulding, simply tack a couple of nails about 6 feet apart just below the ceiling. Then, hang the stick of molding on the brackets of the Crown Hangers. Peel-and-stick molding is perhaps the easiest installation method of all. It's also light, durable and is an excellent option for hiding wires.

All pieces come with a miter cut, so the only necessary tool is a pair of scissors. There are only two steps to correctly installing peel-and-stick molding:. Clip-on molding is a straightforward option any homeowner can easily accomplish in an afternoon — and the result looks polished and professional.

If you want your crown molding up quickly without having to pay a professional installer, follow our installation steps below. One of the things that makes this molding more convenient is that it requires so few tools.

You will only be using the following items:. Once you've gathered the above items, follow the steps below or watch the installation video:. Once you've installed your crown molding, one step remains: finishing it.

This task is not as easy as it sounds, so we've compiled some helpful pointers:. Our crown molding kits offer the best of both worlds: They're quick and easy to install and look completely professional. You won't have to worry about botching the cutting, either, as our products have a four-inch margin of error. We offer four kits, each of which features a distinctive, beautiful design:.

If you have any questions about our installation kits or other products, feel free to reach us using our contact form. Crown Molding Installation Guide. Plaster: Often found in luxurious interiors with plaster walls, plaster crown moldings often feature intricate profiles, which, as you might imagine, can be expensive. Plaster also weighs a significant amount and can crack easily. Solid wood: Crown molding made from solid wood works well for any installation.

This traditional material has been in use for centuries , and its grains and colors add lots of warmth to a room. However, it is fairly pricey and, if you live in a place with lots of humidity, it might expand and contract with the temperature. Installing wood crown molding is particularly difficult — even for professionals — because it consists of three separate pieces. MDF: MDF, or medium-density fiberboard, is an economical alternative to the more expensive wood crown molding.

It comes in veneered or stained options, although you can paint it if you don't like the look of the natural wood finishes.

Make sure to handle this material carefully, as it is more susceptible to denting than wood. Polyurethane: Polyurethane is another type of crown molding that goes well with most installations and is also impervious to pests, which include beetles, woodworms and termites. It is an affordable alternative to plaster, as you can find similar-looking casts for much less. Like MDF, polyurethane is vulnerable to denting, so be extra careful when installing it. PVC: This material is an ideal choice for exteriors, bathrooms or any other place where moisture could be a problem and a simpler profile is suitable.

PVC consists of plastic polymers, which will not warp or rot, regardless of how humid it gets. Because of its construction, however, there are few profile options available and no intricate designs. It also has a slippery surface that makes it difficult to paint, and unfortunately, it's necessary to apply paint to this material. FLEX: This type of crown molding was designed for window bays and curved walls.

Many profiles are available and, although it is less costly than custom carpentry, it is still expensive and must be special-ordered. Polystyrene: Typically used for a speedy room redesign, this material is easy to cut using a knife or scissors, and you can install it using construction adhesive.

However, the texture of polystyrene is thin, and its edges are not particularly crisp. Clip-on : One of the more attractive and easier-to-install options, clip-on molding requires few tools , and anyone can perform the installation. The installer screws clips into the wall and then attach the molding to the clips.

See below for more detailed instructions on installing clip-on molding. Peel and stick: Installing peel-and-stick molding is very easy, although many people generally consider it to be less attractive. As the name implies, this product involves peeling off the tape from the molding and sticking it in place. You can find more detailed instructions below. Installing Wood Molding If you are leaning toward wood molding , keep in mind there's a lot of work involved. Mark the corners: Find a small scrap section of crown molding and press it against the ceiling and wall in one of the room's corners.